The First Story

 

Is my story about my passion for the ocean and the surf.

beach

I grew up landlocked, which means you have no chance to reach any beach or surf within the next 500 miles. But there was always this feeling when I saw surf movies, magazines or pictures. I felt something in me, that said, go and live near the beach, there will come the time you will know why.

And so the story started a few years ago when I convinced some friends of mine doing our holidays in europes No 1 surf capital Hossegor.  This little village situated close to the spanish border in southwest France is a truly nice place. Its about a 13 hour drive from my hometown Friedrichshafen. The journey takes you through Switzerland and France. Most of the time its a classic scenic holiday route. You´re crossing the alps, wineyards and of course some roads passing the atlantic ocean. Arriving there is always a happy moment for me. You instantly feel like you´re home and this town just has been waiting for your arrival. The first thing is immediately running to the beach and jump into the green atlantic ocean. It welcomes you with hard beatings which proove you are not in a lake or the mediterran ocean. We stayed for 11 days and wanted to surf so hard. One of the guys brought 2 Shortboards which belong to his big brother who surfed for a long time. I bought myself a board for 100 Euros.

We had no idea about currents, waves, tides and winds. We surely have been by far the greatest kooks on the beach. For f*** sake the surf wasnt too big at all, at least for the first 6 days. So we did our best and most of the time rode the mushy white water on our belly. There have been scratches and scares because of surfboards flying around. At one day the magic happens, I got quite a quick ride on one wave and was addicted from this moment. There followed two more holidays around Hossegor and Biarritz.

2 Years ago I went on a 6 month trip around the world. And of course I was nearly everyday in the Water. I travelled with my girlfriend, she´s a great women and we had for sure the best time of our entire life. The places we travelled covered the best waves in the world, so the journey fitted perfectly to my need to feel free and surf. And exactly that happened. In the most countries we got a car and slept in it. Mostly close to any beach. With everyday in the water I got better and better, but not just that, there was something developing in my heart, and that was just love for the ocean.

I got to understand why surfing is such a special lifestyle and at the same time so often missunderstood.

The expectation if a normal guy meets a surfer is always the same, “ahh yeaah you are this cool surfer dude”. And thats because he doesn´t know, how it is to get up in the morning at 5.30, drive to the beach, be the first one doing steps into the sand. You are paddling out, and there is just peace. It´s just you and this lovely quiet wilderness. And suddenly you see whales, dolphins, turtles or even sharks, and its the best feeling in the world.

I never believed in God or anything religious. But through surfing I experienced a kind of spirituality. Theres a connection between nature and you, it feels so mighty and good. Whatever shit day you had, a surf a day gives you the motivation and positive vibes you need to solve whatever the problem is. I really can say surfing changed my personality.

DCIM128GOPRO

After 6 months of havin my best time, we returned home. It was absolutely horrible. Of course it was nice to see all my friends again, but I knew on the first evening that I´m gonna escape quickly. So what happend is, that I got back my old job at this big concern and did my project work. It´s good money and the job wasnt too boring. BUT, there was something missing so hard, that I felt so bad. It was definitely the surf before or after work. To talk to all kinds of human beeings in the water, to be in this peaceful environment, without those car and city sounds, its just the brutal sound of waves breaking, which is definitely the sound which calms down your body and spirit. Your soul is just relaxing and givin you a happy time. Just the feeling that nature is so strong, the feeling  that we humans arent the owner of our planet, is so good and different to what you experience in our technican urban world.

Still in Germany, my Girlfriend got a Job as a travel agent in Spain on its island Mallorca. For that reason I decided to leave Germany as well. By accident, an old friend of mine, who is finishing his time in Cape Town posted on Facebook that the company he worked for is hiring. The company is amazon.com and they have been hiring for their customer service. So what, I thought, lets do that!

2 Months later, my feet touched south african ground.  I was frickin frothing for that adventure. To keep the excitement, I haven´t booked any hostel or accomodation. So I landed in CT after 23 hours in planes and airports with one of the brutalst hangovers (of the farewell night before) ever.

Another 3 Months later, I feel like a real Capetonian. And of course I´m back for my big love the ocean. At least 3 to 4 times a week I make it into the blue. Directly from the first day it felt good to live close to the Ocean again. And so I have my passion all around.

And again its clear for me that I´m gonna live at the Ocean till I die!


 

DCIM127GOPRO

 

 

 

 

 

 

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